September 11, 2024

We vote with our money:

The future of Chattanooga's restaurant scene

Writer:
Words by
David Cook
Photographer:
Photography by
Sarah Unger

Food as a verb thanks

Easy Bistro & Bar

for sponsoring this series

Last night's debate. Did you watch? If so, did you make it all the way through the entire debate? Not us.

Food was a topic, however briefly. Groceries are hard to afford. They're also apparently eating dogs in Ohio.

A few nights ago, I opened up Alex Prud'homme's Dinner with the President -- a richly entertaining history of the role food has played in White House politics.

  • Did you know Reagan's jellybeans were a favorite candy but also a way to break a chewing tobacco addiction?
  • Washington, at 45, had lost all his teeth but one, the consequence (partly) of cracking walnuts with his teeth as a child. His dentures were "fashioned from bits of lead and steel with gold springs, and a base of hippopotamus tusk inlaid with cow and human teeth (nine of which he bought from slaves)."
  • Julia Child approached Johnson about a behind-the-scenes look at a state dinner. The 1968 PBS documentary was a "groundbreaking event."

Last night's debate + Prud'homme's book got me thinking; why don't local politicians use food more in their strategy, policy and speeches?

When was the last time you saw a mayor or elected official at our farmers' markets? Been going for years. Don't recall seeing any politician with any regularity.

Why not?

Why aren't food, food policy and agriculture at the core of local politics? Mayor Tim Kelly gives his State of the City tomorrow; dollars to donuts, he'll mention the growing food desert in east Chattanooga, but will he talk about farmland loss, the drought, food policy, food access and supporting a creative, homegrown restaurant culture?

Food as a Verb has invited both mayors to join us at Main Street Farmers' Market. More dollars to more donuts, I'm betting they'll both come this fall.

More on politics later from us.

Onto the big question of the day:

How does a city shape its restaurant scene?

With your stomach, think of Austin. Then, Asheville. And Nashville. Each of those cities has a restaurant scene.

What's ours?

This is an old question, a koan even, possibly unanswerable. Yet, we know that, objectively, a scene is shaped by the restaurants, bars, bakeries and coffeehouses present ... or absent.

Consider Chattanooga without, say, Niedlov's Bakery & Cafe. Look at what changes.

In the next decade, our restaurant/bar landscape will significantly change, for better or worse.

Think of all that's coming. The Bend. South Broad.

Look at the vision cast for The Bend and its 120 acres of mixed-use riverfront development.

Every piece of real estate colored red is designated "retail/dining/neighborhood commercial."

This is year one. Look at the red.

Year five:

And year ten:

Year ten looks to hold around 30 red boxes; if we're cautious, let's say 20% become restaurants.

That's six new downtown+riverfront restaurants.

Questions immediately surface:

  • What is the capacity for Chattanooga downtown restaurants? What is our saturation, or tipping, point?
  • Are these restaurants locally owned and developed?
  • Or are they owned by out-of-state developers? Are they chain restaurants?

The Bend is mostly mum for now; the questions we asked weren't answered. This fall should hold more news, we're told.

Last Sunday, we proudly featured Amanda and Erik Niel, the visionary owners of Little Coyote, Easy Bistro & Bar and Main Street Meats.

Amanda and Erik Niel, Little Coyote, St. Elmo, Tenn.

When they started Easy Bistro in 2005, they'd "scraped together $650,000."

Today, the price tag of opening a restaurant would be exorbitant, wildly out-of-reach for most chef-owners.

The cost of opening Easy today?

"Now, it's well north of $2 million," Erik said.

Erik Niel, Little Coyote, St. Elmo, Tenn.

The Niels spoke of the vast difficulty -- "the greatest hindrance to development that has ever existed" -- within the city's permitting process.

There are more obstacles than ever for local chef-owners to start and maintain locally-grown restaurants. Farming has its equivalent; small farmers face more obstacles than large-scale, industrial farmers.

How does this bode for our local restaurant scene when local chef-owners can't afford to get in the game? Or, when they do, they face what our city's top chef calls "the greatest hindrance" to restaurant development?

"This is part of the death knell of the chef-owner," Erik said.

So, first thing's first.

We need to recognize the lay of the land. This is the situation we face.

Second, we need to support the local restaurants we do value and love.

Third, let's lean on our local officials to get more involved in local food in all its forms.

The Niels said it perfectly.

"You can’t rely on visitors. People need to know how important they are. They get to decide. If they want chain pizza, that’s what we get. Another burger bar? That’s what we get. You vote with your money," said Erik.

"People that live here need to support local restaurants," said Amanda.

"If you want a vibrant restaurant scene where people are creative, you have to support their creativity," he said.

Now, a few announcements and save-the-dates:

  • We're so very proud and excited to announce that Sujata Singh's Spice Trail is now open for dinner.

Want to support local, creative chefs? Start here, with Spice Trail.

Spice Trail, Chattanooga, Tennessee

At last week's soft opening, we savored one of our most favorite dinners in a very long time. Makhana Bhel -- lotus roots, puffed rice, chutneys -- and Shrimp Moilee and Samosas and Bhaja, the eggplant + raita salad. Oh my, my.

Apparently, others agreed.

"Huge shoutout needed for Chef Sujata, Oscar" Cobon and the Spice Trail team, Chef Brian McDonald posted.

We'll follow up with Sujata and Oscar in the coming weeks. Until then, treat yourself with Indian cuisine unlike any in this city.

  • We're proud to partner with the Jewish Federation of Greater Chattanooga for an upcoming art exhibit called Food For Thought.

Not long ago, the wonderful Ann Treadwell reached out with a great idea: let's host an art exhibit combining Food as a Verb stories with international artists.

"We'll call it Food for Thought," she said, wisely.

At 5.30 pm on September 25, the Federation hosts an exhibit reception. We'll be there; hopefully, you will, too.

  • This Saturday, Sept. 14, our friends at UT Ag-Extension are hosting an Urban Poultry Workshop, perfect for backyard hen owners and homesteaders.

The Food as a Verb team has owned hens for years. Backyard hens are hilarious, massively helpful and productive. They've taught us so much. If you're even slightly interested, we encourage you:

Get some chickens.  

The $10 workshop -- including lunch -- will cover the fundamentals: chicken safety, biosecurity, feed and so on.

Register at tiny.utk.edu/urbanpoultry.

  • Finally, 15 days remain until the big Food as a Verb one-year anniversary-birthday party.

On Thursday, September 26, we'll be at Cherry Street Tavern for drinks, meals, music and big hugs all around.

We'll say more in the coming weeks, but please, save the date. Our celebration is yours, too. RSVP here

  • Finally, most importantly, it's 9/11 today. Food as a Verb remembers, always.

All photography by Sarah Unger (sarah@foodasaverb.com)

All design by Alex DeHart

All words by David Cook (david@foodasaverb.com)

Story ideas, questions, feedback? Interested in partnering with us? Email: david@foodasaverb.com

This story is 100% human generated; no AI chatbot was used in the creation of this content.

food as a verb thanks our sustaining partner:

food as a verb thanks our story sponsor:

Easy Bistro & Bar

X

keep reading

November 6, 2024
read more
November 3, 2024
read more

Last night's debate. Did you watch? If so, did you make it all the way through the entire debate? Not us.

Food was a topic, however briefly. Groceries are hard to afford. They're also apparently eating dogs in Ohio.

A few nights ago, I opened up Alex Prud'homme's Dinner with the President -- a richly entertaining history of the role food has played in White House politics.

  • Did you know Reagan's jellybeans were a favorite candy but also a way to break a chewing tobacco addiction?
  • Washington, at 45, had lost all his teeth but one, the consequence (partly) of cracking walnuts with his teeth as a child. His dentures were "fashioned from bits of lead and steel with gold springs, and a base of hippopotamus tusk inlaid with cow and human teeth (nine of which he bought from slaves)."
  • Julia Child approached Johnson about a behind-the-scenes look at a state dinner. The 1968 PBS documentary was a "groundbreaking event."

Last night's debate + Prud'homme's book got me thinking; why don't local politicians use food more in their strategy, policy and speeches?

When was the last time you saw a mayor or elected official at our farmers' markets? Been going for years. Don't recall seeing any politician with any regularity.

Why not?

Why aren't food, food policy and agriculture at the core of local politics? Mayor Tim Kelly gives his State of the City tomorrow; dollars to donuts, he'll mention the growing food desert in east Chattanooga, but will he talk about farmland loss, the drought, food policy, food access and supporting a creative, homegrown restaurant culture?

Food as a Verb has invited both mayors to join us at Main Street Farmers' Market. More dollars to more donuts, I'm betting they'll both come this fall.

More on politics later from us.

Onto the big question of the day:

How does a city shape its restaurant scene?

With your stomach, think of Austin. Then, Asheville. And Nashville. Each of those cities has a restaurant scene.

What's ours?

This is an old question, a koan even, possibly unanswerable. Yet, we know that, objectively, a scene is shaped by the restaurants, bars, bakeries and coffeehouses present ... or absent.

Consider Chattanooga without, say, Niedlov's Bakery & Cafe. Look at what changes.

In the next decade, our restaurant/bar landscape will significantly change, for better or worse.

Think of all that's coming. The Bend. South Broad.

Look at the vision cast for The Bend and its 120 acres of mixed-use riverfront development.

Every piece of real estate colored red is designated "retail/dining/neighborhood commercial."

This is year one. Look at the red.

Year five:

And year ten:

Year ten looks to hold around 30 red boxes; if we're cautious, let's say 20% become restaurants.

That's six new downtown+riverfront restaurants.

Questions immediately surface:

  • What is the capacity for Chattanooga downtown restaurants? What is our saturation, or tipping, point?
  • Are these restaurants locally owned and developed?
  • Or are they owned by out-of-state developers? Are they chain restaurants?

The Bend is mostly mum for now; the questions we asked weren't answered. This fall should hold more news, we're told.

Last Sunday, we proudly featured Amanda and Erik Niel, the visionary owners of Little Coyote, Easy Bistro & Bar and Main Street Meats.

Amanda and Erik Niel, Little Coyote, St. Elmo, Tenn.

When they started Easy Bistro in 2005, they'd "scraped together $650,000."

Today, the price tag of opening a restaurant would be exorbitant, wildly out-of-reach for most chef-owners.

The cost of opening Easy today?

"Now, it's well north of $2 million," Erik said.

Erik Niel, Little Coyote, St. Elmo, Tenn.

The Niels spoke of the vast difficulty -- "the greatest hindrance to development that has ever existed" -- within the city's permitting process.

There are more obstacles than ever for local chef-owners to start and maintain locally-grown restaurants. Farming has its equivalent; small farmers face more obstacles than large-scale, industrial farmers.

How does this bode for our local restaurant scene when local chef-owners can't afford to get in the game? Or, when they do, they face what our city's top chef calls "the greatest hindrance" to restaurant development?

"This is part of the death knell of the chef-owner," Erik said.

So, first thing's first.

We need to recognize the lay of the land. This is the situation we face.

Second, we need to support the local restaurants we do value and love.

Third, let's lean on our local officials to get more involved in local food in all its forms.

The Niels said it perfectly.

"You can’t rely on visitors. People need to know how important they are. They get to decide. If they want chain pizza, that’s what we get. Another burger bar? That’s what we get. You vote with your money," said Erik.

"People that live here need to support local restaurants," said Amanda.

"If you want a vibrant restaurant scene where people are creative, you have to support their creativity," he said.

Now, a few announcements and save-the-dates:

  • We're so very proud and excited to announce that Sujata Singh's Spice Trail is now open for dinner.

Want to support local, creative chefs? Start here, with Spice Trail.

Spice Trail, Chattanooga, Tennessee

At last week's soft opening, we savored one of our most favorite dinners in a very long time. Makhana Bhel -- lotus roots, puffed rice, chutneys -- and Shrimp Moilee and Samosas and Bhaja, the eggplant + raita salad. Oh my, my.

Apparently, others agreed.

"Huge shoutout needed for Chef Sujata, Oscar" Cobon and the Spice Trail team, Chef Brian McDonald posted.

We'll follow up with Sujata and Oscar in the coming weeks. Until then, treat yourself with Indian cuisine unlike any in this city.

  • We're proud to partner with the Jewish Federation of Greater Chattanooga for an upcoming art exhibit called Food For Thought.

Not long ago, the wonderful Ann Treadwell reached out with a great idea: let's host an art exhibit combining Food as a Verb stories with international artists.

"We'll call it Food for Thought," she said, wisely.

At 5.30 pm on September 25, the Federation hosts an exhibit reception. We'll be there; hopefully, you will, too.

  • This Saturday, Sept. 14, our friends at UT Ag-Extension are hosting an Urban Poultry Workshop, perfect for backyard hen owners and homesteaders.

The Food as a Verb team has owned hens for years. Backyard hens are hilarious, massively helpful and productive. They've taught us so much. If you're even slightly interested, we encourage you:

Get some chickens.  

The $10 workshop -- including lunch -- will cover the fundamentals: chicken safety, biosecurity, feed and so on.

Register at tiny.utk.edu/urbanpoultry.

  • Finally, 15 days remain until the big Food as a Verb one-year anniversary-birthday party.

On Thursday, September 26, we'll be at Cherry Street Tavern for drinks, meals, music and big hugs all around.

We'll say more in the coming weeks, but please, save the date. Our celebration is yours, too. RSVP here

  • Finally, most importantly, it's 9/11 today. Food as a Verb remembers, always.

All photography by Sarah Unger (sarah@foodasaverb.com)

All design by Alex DeHart

All words by David Cook (david@foodasaverb.com)

Story ideas, questions, feedback? Interested in partnering with us? Email: david@foodasaverb.com

This story is 100% human generated; no AI chatbot was used in the creation of this content.

Food as a verb thanks our story sponsor:

Food as a Verb Thanks our sustaining partner:

keep reading

November 6, 2024
READ MORE
November 3, 2024
READ MORE
November 6, 2024
READ MORE
November 3, 2024
READ MORE
October 30, 2024
READ MORE

Regional Farmers' Markets

Brainerd Farmers' Market
Saturday, 10am - noon
Grace Episcopal Church, 20 Belvoir Ave, Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga Market
Sunday, 11am - 4pm
1820 Carter Street
Dunlap Farmers' Market
Every Saturday morning, spring through fall, from 9am to 1pm central.
Harris Park, 91 Walnut St., Dunlap, TN
Fresh Mess Market
Every Thursday, 3pm - 6pm, beg. June 6 - Oct. 3
Harton Park, Monteagle, TN. (Rain location: Monteagle Fire Hall.)
Main Street Farmers' Market
Wednesday, 4 - 6pm
Corner of W. 20th and Chestnut St., near Finley Stadium
Ooltewah Farmers' Market
The Ooltewah Nursery, Thursday, 3 - 6pm
5829 Main Street Ooltewah, TN 37363
Rabbit Valley Farmers' Market
Saturdays, 9am to 1pm, mid-May to mid-October.
96 Depot Street Ringgold, GA 30736
South Cumberland Farmers' Market
Tuesdays from 4:15 to 6:00 p.m. (central.) Order online by Monday 10 am (central.)
Sewanee Community Center (behind the Sewanee Market on Ball Park Rd.)
St. Alban's Farmers' Market
Saturday, 9.30am - 12.30pm with a free pancake breakfast every third Saturday
7514 Hixson Pike
Walker County Farmers' Market - Sat
Saturday, 9 am - 1 pm
Downtown Lafayette, Georgia
Walker County Farmers' Market - Wed
Wednesday, 2 - 5 pm
Rock Spring Ag. Center